Wrinkles (cont.)
What factors promote wrinkles?
Factors that promote wrinkling include:
- Smoking
- Light skin type (people with blue eyes and easily burned skin are more
prone to sun damage)
- Heredity (some families wrinkle more)
- Hairstyle (some styles provide cover and protection against sun damage)
- Dress (hats, long sleeves, etc.)
- Occupational and recreational habits (farming, sailing, golfing, using
tanning booths, and so forth)
Some of these factors are beyond our control. The main preventive measures we
can take are to minimize sun exposure and not smoke.
SPF numbers on sunscreen
labels refer to protection against UVB radiation (shortwave ultraviolet light,
the "sunburn rays"). More and more sunscreens offer protection against UVA
radiation (longer-wave ultraviolet light) as well. UVA rays are the ones you get
in tanning salons; they may not cause immediate sunburn but do promote sun
damage and skin cancer risk over time. (Sorry, but there is no such thing as a
"safe tan.") Sunscreens that block UVA indicate this on the label and include
such ingredients as Parsol 1789. The FDA has recently approved Mexoryl, another
UVA-blocking ingredient, which has been available in Europe for some time. For
more, please read the articles, Sunburn and Sun Sensitizing Drugs and
Sun Protection and Sunscreens.
What medical treatments and cosmetic procedures are available for wrinkles?
There are several medical (topical medicines and creams) and cosmetic techniques
available for reducing wrinkles. They include both medical and surgical methods:
Medical treatments
- Vitamin A Acid (tretinoin, Retin-A, Renova).
This ingredient, available by prescription, has the longest track record of
success in treating aging skin and fine lines. Creams containing tretinoin
must be used on an ongoing basis. They may produce redness and peeling at
first, but discomfort can usually be minimized by lowering the cream's
concentration or applying it less often until the skin gets used to it.
- Alpha-hydroxy acids. These so-called "fruit acids" include
glycolic and lactic acid. Preparations containing these fruit acids are
quite safe and cause no more than mild and temporary irritation. They
produce only subtle improvement, though.
- Antioxidants. These include preparations that contain the
vitamins A, C, and E, as well as beta-carotene. Such creams may provide a
certain amount of sun protection as well as mild improvement of fine
wrinkles.
- Ordinary moisturizers. Creams that don't contain any of the above
substances can only make wrinkles look temporarily less prominent ("reduce
the appearance of fine lines").
Cosmetic procedures
- Glycolic acid peels. These superficial peels can make a very slight
difference in the intensity of fine wrinkles.
- Deeper peels. These peels use ingredients like salicylic acid and
trichloroacetic acid and penetrate somewhat deeper into the skin. Deeper
peels do a better job of smoothing fine lines. The deeper the peel, however,
the greater the risk of side effects, such as long-lasting pigment changes
(changes in the color of the skin) and scarring. Such peels do not require
anesthesia. Mild sedation helps ease short-term but fairly intense
discomfort.
- Microdermabrasion.
This refers to "sanding the skin" with a
machine containing silica or aluminum crystals; many estheticians offer this
service, usually in "packages" of six or seven sessions. Microdermabrasion
does not change skin anatomy, though it may make the face feel smoother.
Cosmetic products marketed as "home microdermabrasion" are just mild
exfoliants, harmless but not likely to produce any meaningful change in
wrinkles.
- Dermabrasion. This is a true surgical procedure, often performed
under general anesthesia. The treating physician uses a rotating instrument
to sand the skin down. Depending a great deal on the skill and experience of
the operator, dermabrasion can result in excellent improvement, but can also
produce significant side effects, including scarring and permanent changes
in skin color.
- Laser resurfacing. Using instruments such as the carbon dioxide and
erbium lasers, physicians can achieve results similar to those of
dermabrasion with greater reliability and precision. The laser is passed
several times over the area to be treated until the peel reaches the middle
of the dermis, the skin's second layer. This helps stimulate the body's
natural collagen synthesis (production), which plumps up sagging skin and
wrinkles. Some doctors perform laser resurfacing under "conscious sedation,"
in which the patient remains awake and receives intravenous medications to
calm and ease pain. This sedation is combined with the application of
topical anesthetic creams such as EMLA, as well as injections of local
anesthetics like lidocaine. Procedures may need to be repeated to maximize
improvement. Skin takes a long time to heal (weeks to months) after
resurfacing. In addition, this procedure, like dermabrasion can cause
permanent pigment changes and scarring.
- Fractional resurfacing.
Newer lasers work through a
modification of traditional laser resurfacing. Treatments affect not the
whole skin but instead only evenly spaced spots surrounded by undamaged
skin. Healing is much faster than traditional resurfacing, with less
"downtime" afterward. Several treatments are needed to achieve full benefit.
- Non-ablative laser resurfacing. Newer lasers attempt to stimulate
collagen synthesis under the skin without peeling or damaging the epidermis.
Studies and clinical experience suggest that such procedures can improve
fine wrinkles, though not as much as laser resurfacing. Several treatments
may be necessary. These procedures are almost painless and there is little
or no redness, peeling, or downtime afterward.
- Heat and radiofrequency.
Another variation of noninvasive
facial rejuvenation is to heat tissue using radiofrequency devises and
infrared light sources. Techniques are still being developed, but results to
date suggest that such treatments are safe and can produce visible and
lasting improvement, though not as much as surgical techniques like
facelifts.
- Plastic surgical procedures. Surgical facelifts, brow lifts, and similar
operations can be very helpful for selected patients.
- Botox. Injection of botulinum toxin, the muscle poison, can
paralyze muscles that produce the "frown lines" on the forehead, fine lines
around the eyes, and other wrinkles. Improvement lasts several months and
must be repeated to sustain improvement. Injected properly, Botox is quite
safe: The muscle poison does not spread through the body to do damage
elsewhere.
- Fillers.
Fillers are injected into the skin to increase
volume and flatten wrinkles and folds. For a long time, the most popular
filler was collagen, whose effect only lasts a few months. More recently,
new filler substances, such as hyaluronic acid (Restylane, Juvederm) and
calcium hydroxylapatite (Radiesse), have become popular, because their
effect can last six to nine months, or even longer.
Anyone considering any of the cosmetic procedures should be sure to consult
doctors who have experience in one or several of these techniques. Patients
should fully inform themselves about the risks and potential benefits of the
procedure they are considering before going forward.
- Skin ages all over the body, but much more so where there has been sun
exposure. Changes brought on by sun damage (photoaging) include
"dryness" (really roughness), sagginess, skin growths like
keratoses ("liver spots"), and wrinkles.
- Wrinkles in turn can be divided into two categories; fine surface lines
and deep furrows. Wrinkle treatments are in general much more effective for
fine lines. Deeper creases may require more aggressive techniques, such as
plastic surgery.
- Factors that promote wrinkling include smoking; skin type (people with
light-colored skin and blue eyes are more susceptible to sun damage);
heredity (some families wrinkle more); hairstyle (depending on how much skin
is covered by hair and protected from the sun); dress (again, by determining
which skin is exposed); and occupational and recreational sun exposure over the
course of many years.
- Treatments available for wrinkles include medical treatments (such as
vitamin A acid, alpha hydroxy acids, antioxidants, and moisturizer) and
cosmetic procedures (such as glycolic acids peels, deep peels, dermabrasion,
laser resurfacing, surgical procedures, and Botox).
Last Editorial Review: 11/29/2006
- tretinoin, Retin A, Atralin, Renova, Avita, Altinac - Learn about tretinoin (Retin-A, Atralin, Renova, Avita, Altinac) a drug used to treat moderate acne, wrinkles, and sun damaged skin.
- Photodynamic Therapy - Read about photodynamic therapy (PDT). PDT uses a photosensitizing agent and light source to treat cancers (skin, lung, esophageal, Barrett's esophagus), acne and rosacea.
- Skin Cancer - Learn the types of skin cancer (basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma, and melanoma), their causes, symptoms, treatments, and prevention techniques. Get the facts about sun exposure and sunscreen.
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