Dr. Cole is board certified in dermatology. He obtained his BA degree in bacteriology, his MA degree in microbiology, and his MD at the University of California, Los Angeles. He trained in dermatology at the University of Oregon, where he completed his residency.
Melissa Conrad Stöppler, MD, is a U.S. board-certified Anatomic Pathologist with subspecialty training in the fields of Experimental and Molecular Pathology. Dr. Stöppler's educational background includes a BA with Highest Distinction from the University of Virginia and an MD from the University of North Carolina. She completed residency training in Anatomic Pathology at Georgetown University followed by subspecialty fellowship training in molecular diagnostics and experimental pathology.
Cosmetics: Don't be afraid to hide blemishes with flesh-tinted cover-ups
or even foundation, as long at it is water-based (which makes it noncomedogenic). There are many
quality products available.
Facials: While not absolutely essential, steaming and "deep-cleaning" pores
is useful, both alone and in addition to medical treatment, especially for
people with "whiteheads" or "blackheads." Having these pores unclogged by a
professional also reduces the temptation to do it yourself.
Pore strips: Pharmacies now carry, under a variety of
brand names, strips which you put on your nose, forehead, chin, etc., to "pull out"
oil from your pores. These are, in effect, a do-it-yourself facial. They are
inexpensive, safe, and work reasonably well if used properly.
Toothpaste? One popular home remedy is to put toothpaste on zits. There is no medical basis for this. Ditto for vinegar.
If you haven't been able to control your acne adequately, you may want to
consult a primary-care physician or dermatologist. The goal of treatment should be the prevention of scarring (not a flawless complexion) so that after the condition spontaneously resolves there is no lasting sign of the affliction. Here are some of the options available:
Retinoids: Retin-A (tretinoin) has been around for years, and preparations have become
milder and gentler while still maintaining its effectiveness. Newer retinoids
include adapalene (Differin) and
tazarotene (Tazorac). These
medications are especially
helpful for unclogging pores. Side effects
may include irritation and a mild increase in sensitivity to the sun. With
proper sun protection, however, they can be used even during sunny periods.
In December 2008, the U.S. FDA approved the combination medication known as Epiduo gel, which contains the retinoid adapalene along with the antibacterial cleanser benzoyl peroxide is applied once a day.
Oral antibiotics: Doctors may start treatment
with tetracycline (Sumycin) or one of the related "cyclines," such as
doxycycline (Vibramycin, Oracea, Adoxa, Atridox and others) and
minocycline (Dynacin, Minocin). Other oral antibiotics that are useful for treating acne are
DisperMox, Trimox), and
the sulfa drugs.
Problems with these drugs can include allergic reactions (especially
sulfa), gastrointestinal upset,
and increased sun sensitivity. Doxycycline, in particular, is generally safe but
can sometime cause esophagitis (irritation of the esophagus, producing
discomfort when swallowing) and an increased tendency to sunburn.
Despite the concern that the long term use of oral antibiotics for acne might "weaken the immune system" or induce bacterial resistance, these concerns seem to be unwarranted.
Oral contraceptives, which
are low in estrogen to
promote safety, have little effect on acne one way or the other. Some
contraceptive pills have been to shown to have modest effectiveness in treating
acne. Those FDA approved for treating acne are Estrostep, Ortho Tri-Cyclen, and Yaz. Most dermatologists work together with primary physicians or gynecologists when recommending these medications.
Spironolactone (Aldactone): This drug blocks androgen (hormone) receptors. It can cause breast tenderness, menstrual irregularities, and increased potassium levels in the bloodstream. It can help some women with resistant acne, however, and is generally well-tolerated in the young women who need it.
Cortisone injections: To make large pimples and cysts flatten out fast,
doctors inject them with a form of cortisone.
Isotretinoin: (Accutane was the original brand name; there are now several generic versions in common use, including Sotret, Claravis, and Amnesteem.) Isotretinoin is an excellent treatment for severe, scarring persistent acne and has been used on millions of patients since it was introduced in Europe in 1971 and in the U.S. in 1982. It should be used for people with severe acne, chiefly of the cystic variety, which has been unresponsive to conventional therapies like those listed above. The drug has many potential serious side effects and requires a number of unique controls before it is prescribed. This means that isotretinoin is not a good choice for people whose acne is not that bad but who are frustrated and want "something that will knock acne out once and for all." In order to use the drug the prescribing physician, the patient, and the supplying pharmacy must be enrolled in the online "iPLEDGE PROGRAM." Used properly, isotretinoin is safe and produces few side effects beyond dry lips and occasional muscle aches. This drug is prescribed for five to six months. Fasting blood tests are monitored monthly to check liver function and the level of triglycerides, substances
related to cholesterol, which often rise a bit during
treatment, but rarely to the point at which treatment has to be modified or
Even though isotretinoin does not remain in the body after therapy is stopped,
improvement is often long-lasting. It is safe to take two or three courses of
the drug if unresponsive acne makes a comeback. It is, however, best to wait at
least several months and to try other methods before using isotretinoin again.
Isotretinoin has a high risk of inducing
if taken by pregnant women. Women of childbearing age who take isotretinoin need
two negative pregnancy tests (blood or urine) before starting the drug, monthly
tests while they take it, and another after they are done. Those who are
sexually active must use two forms of contraception, one of which is usually the
oral contraceptive pill. Isotretinoin leaves the body completely when treatment is
done; women must be sure to avoid pregnancy for one month after therapy is
stopped. There is, however, no risk to childbearing after that time.
Other concerns include inflammatory bowel disease and the risk of depression and
suicide in patients taking isotretinoin. Government oversight has resulted in a highly publicized and very burdensome national registration system for those taking the drug. This has reinforced concerns in many patients and their families have that isotretinoin is dangerous. In fact, large-scale studies so far have shown no convincing evidence of increased risk for those taking isotretinoin compared with the general population. It is important for those taking this drug to report changes in mood or bowel habits (or any other symptoms) to their doctors. Even patients who are being treated for depression are not barred from taking isotretinoin, whose striking success often improves the mood and outlook of patients with severe disease.
Light treatments: Recent years have brought reports of success in treating
acne using special lights and similar devices, alone or in conjunction with
photosensitizing dyes. It appears that these treatments are safe and can be effective, but it is not clear that their success is lasting. At this point, laser treatment of acne is best thought of as an adjunct to conventional therapy, rather than as a substitute.
Chemical peels: Whether the superficial peels (like glycolic acid)
performed by aestheticians or deeper ones performed in the doctor's office, chemical
peels are of modest, supportive benefit only, and in general, they do not substitute
for regular therapy.
Treatment of acne scars: For those patients whose acne has gone away but left them with permanent scarring, several options are available. These include surgical procedures to elevate deep, depressed
acne scars and laser resurfacing to smooth out shallow
acne scars. Newer forms of laser resurfacing ("fractional resurfacing") are less invasive and heal faster than older methods, although results are less complete and the procedures may need to be repeated
three or more times. These treatments can help, but they are never completely successful at eliminating